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Mr Nooteboom drives there too. He finds the church locked, goes into the village, and meets an old couple who feed him strong liquor (orujo), and then open up the church for him. Nowadays there are published opening times. We get them wrong, can't be bothered to go into the village and just sort of hang around outside for a while.
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It's Tenth century and "a notable example of Mozarabic church architecture". Lots of people have researched it - and written a lot about it.
But what really excited us in the end were the lizards. Having a bask. The church is meant to have a mighty fine yew and an impressive cypress outside it. But the yew, I fear, is no more and I got confused about which one the cypress was.
... and so we went away again...
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